3D PRITING NOTES

if the machine is too hot, the plastic melts flat. If it's too cold, it doesn't melt and so doesn't stick.

Doing levelling and pre-heating makes a difference

ISSUES

Thin layer of PLA stuck to build plate and can't remove. Heat hot (max is 100 but probably 70 or 80 is enough and it will peel off with a plastic scraping tool)

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Ender 3 3d Printer: Assembly and Set Up

Ender 3 (not pro). Came with the flex bed.

Full tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQ0q9zLygTY

Assembly takes about 1.5 hours, then setup another 20 minutes

Assemble with directions. It comes with 3 metal (things) and you just use one. The others are spares. The little blue parts do nothing, I think.

Make sure the 2 wires for X and E are in the right spots (you'll get an error message when you try to Auto Home that says ‘Homing Failed: Printer Halted Please Reset’, so you just switch them and try again to Auto Home).

The USB slot is not on the screen part but on the computer part.

Check voltage before plugging in.

Clip the filament (otherwise it won't go in) at a 45 degree angle. Feed it in from the outside using the lever and pushing. It goes right through that unit into the tube (which you connect and it should just basically feel locked in place)

SETUP

Auto Home to see if all the pulleys are working.

Level the bed: In the screen go to Prepare > Disable Steppers, so now you can move the bed around manually. move the nozzle to each corner and use the knobs underneath to go almost touching. Each corner. Then take a piece of paper and do the same, so you just get a bit of resistance sliding the paper. Then Auto Home again, and then do the paper thing again (it might have moved quite a bit so don't be surprised). Now you can print.

Setup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VIa-kaPkseg

When taking the bed out, lift it, because dragging the surface can scratch the glass (by lift it, I mean drag it upwards, against the black parts)

When tightening the screws on the build plate (with an allen key), do the front one first then the side one.

Leveler not included, so use your own, and level the base of the device

When filling the tray with resin, don't go to max level unless you have to (messier), and don't worry about bubbles.

That weird black plastic part is an attachment for drip drying (smaller) prints

Used resin goes back in the bottle (use a filter just to keep out plastic parts)

To clean a print, dip it in Isopropyl Alcohol from the drug store, a few minutes (some say longer the better but longer also dulls prints), then dip it in water.

To cure a print, nothign more than an hour. Just set it outside in the sun if you don't have the special washing/curing machine).

Some resins come with special instructions (like over for 20 minutes) but these special instructions don't apply to most resins. All you need for regular resins is to clean resin in alcohol and cure in sunlight.

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RESINS

You can leave the resin in the tray of the printer for months, but it's a good idea to cover it so no UV gets in. Stir before using again.

(water washable versus) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ht4tbCiFxeM

The water washable ones are not any better in terms of breathing fumes. They can be ‘stinkier' even. If a resin bothers you, change to another, as they vary from one to another. However, resin is not worse than a lot of other things people have in the house like bleach and new furniture. Pay attention and see if you get a headache or anything. The main thing people look for seems to be skin or lung irritation, and it seems it can build up over exposure time.

The way the UV curing process works it that the light is absorbed as a single photon that breaks a bond with a specific energy and that means the light has a minimum energy in order to work. The energy translates into a specific wavelength and you can look up the critical wavelength on the manufacturer’s website. This same value is usually published in the user manual that comes with the resin. What brings this into question is light sources that have many wavelengths like sunlight or a high intensity bulb. I have observed this in the UV curing resin used for bonding glass. It has a critical wavelength of 365 nm which is not visible and it doesn’t show up in “black light” bulbs at all. We can get resin to cure in sunlight but it is pretty slow and the light source we used to use is 750 Watts and heats up the building but it will give you a nice tan. The replacement we found is an led with a peak emission at 365 nm and it uses about 20 watts. So more energy doesn’t make it cure faster only the right wavelength will do and if you have that you only need a small amount of energy.

Typically eg the lamps used for auto lamps could be 350 watt per inch and may be 110 inch long. So consumed about 40 Kw per lamp

The lamps may have a spectrum with pure Hg or may have additives. Which modify the SPD. Some curing lamps cure the paints of cars, employing about 85 inch long lamp and consuming 400 watt per inch.

Curing in sunlight (not cloudy) for 2 or 3 hours. You can put it in a plastic bag or container filled with water so the water diffuses the light and lend a more even cure. Oxygen in the air can cause the resin to dry out, so water will help there too.

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CLEANING

• 99% isopropyl alcohol
• plastic strainer thing

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RESINS

Prusa Slicer settings for Mars2 pro

• Bottom exposure (longer to ensure they stick, but not too long or they fix too fixedly and flare at the base)
• : : 35-40s. Add 5 (so 40-45) for clearer resins
• : : 35s for all water washable resinns, according to Elegoo
• Normal exposures (assuming a 0.05mm layer height
• : : 2.5s (3s for darker resins, 6s for clearer resins)
• : : 2.5 for grey. 3 for black. 2 for white. 2.5 for all other colors including colored transparent (clear not shown)
• Layer height (lower makes for smoother, and require shorter exposure times, but will increase overall print time)
• : : 0.05mm standard, but most printers can do 0.25 - 1mm
• : : Elegoo recommends 0.05mm for all its water washable
• Lift Speed (if it's too high it might pull the print off the build plate or FEP may be damaged. Only downside to slow is slow prints)
• : : 90 is the default, between 80-100mm/s is the recommendation, but ‘vroom’ (YouTuber Uncle Jesse) settings can be like 300mm/s
• Anti-aliasing, is pixelation

ANODIZING ALUMINUM

• clearning products like dishwashing liquid, and a degreasing cleaner to degrease the aluminum
• sulferic acid (to soak the aluminum)
• power supply, aluminum plate (attach the negative cathode of the power supply to the aluminum plate, then put the plate in sulpheric acid, then connect the positive to the aluminum piece, then turn on power to 12 volts DC at 2 amps (when bubbles form you know the current is flowing. When bubbles stop, remove the aluminum piece).
• Anodizing dye, distilled water (mix according to directions, and submerge for 15 minutes or more. (Sometimes people heat it)).
• Finishing additives (optional?)

• 6 gramos de polvo (bieromato)
• 1 libra de emulsion

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PLASTISOL INK

Works on polyesters.

It's a petroleum product, so you can stretch it.

Cures at 320/330 degrees F for up to 10 to 20 seconds/one minute. Heat gun, conveyor, or Flash dryer.

Needs chemical solvent to clean it out of the screen (soap and water doesn't work). But you don't need to clean it, you can leave it and it doesn't dry. But recommended cleaning the image area, because it does chunk up even if it doesn't dry.

You can ‘flash dry it.' That means gelling (done rather than curing so that the various ink passes cure together) the ink at about 260 degrees. Then stack more color on top. When you stack ink, you want ‘off contact’ The screen sits 1/8th or 1/4 above, to allow the thick ink to sit on the screen.

It cures at 320. It bonds. If the ink is thick, it needs time to penetrate, because it all needs to reach that temp. With a flash drier (machine). Use a laser temp gun to check the surface (350 means the base is probably 320). If, after you cool it a bit, when you stretch it, it doesn't crack, that means it's cured. If it cracks it's not cured.

30 seconds at 350, been told.

You can add ‘curable reducer’ Add a little, reduce opacity, runnier and therefore easier to print, but this is for grey or lighterish. For black you want the full body of the plastisol.

CURING with a heat gun. White takes longer than black. White is thick and reflects light.

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FN INK

260/280 degrees

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SPANISH

Termómetro infrarrojo digital 50 - 70k

Rango de temperatura/rango de medición: -50 ~ 330 ° (-58 ~ 626 °)

Potencia: 2 pilas AAA (Incluidas)

pistola de calor 70k - 100k - 170k (brand)

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VOCABULARY

spot color

half tone

min mesh count for lines per inch you're doing. Take lines per inch you're doing (eg 55) X 4.5. It would be 250 minimum mesh count.

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Burning screen

light source - print - screen covered in emulsion which has dried. usually takes about a minute (midday sunlight). (12 minutes in flourescent lighting in the house.)

flourescent lights don't have a lot of UV but do have UV.

Soak for 30 minutes.

wash out the exposure on the screen From the Outside with powerwasher. Or it might blow out the screenprint image. Wet on both sides, or use a dip tank after exposing a screen (avoids inconsistencies). Can use brush or sponge.

optionally, can use an air gun to dry it, better than newspaper or something.

dry it outside in the sun ('post exposure process' ‘post hardening’). It will make the stencil more durable. Or use a fan, but it doesn't post harden.

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Reclaiming screens

Can be done with garden hose and emulsion remover, but slow.

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Alternate method

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0ZAj2j6g6I

painters tape

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NOTES

Teflon sheets protect the heat source from getting paint on them

OR full color DTF printing

Servicio de impresiosn DTF

photo emulsion sheets, in a screenprinting kit

put down black surface, then screen, then transparency, then light

12 min flourescent lights indoors or 1 min midday sun

soak in water 30 minutes

wash out with a brush or sponge

painters tape to put on shirt

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vinyl cricut method

transfer tape to transfer the design

just burnish with hands, not squeegy, because you don't want the vinyl to get too stuck to the transfer tape

Might want a roller

might want tweezers (to go back and fix what peels when you peel off the sticker)

dot stickers for aligning screen to fabric

when you stick the sticker to the screen, you can burnish with squeegy as well.

remove tape at 180 degrees